This depression-era dessert is quietly making a comeback. Simple and comforting

If you’d like to dress this up without straying far from its roots, there are several simple paths you can take. A small pinch of salt and a splash of vanilla extract or a dusting of nutmeg or cinnamon on top before baking are classic touches in many Midwestern kitchens, though they do add to the basic four ingredients. Some cooks like to warm the milk slightly before whisking it in, which can help the sugar dissolve and give a smoother custard. You can also swap part of the whole milk for cream for a richer, more velvety texture, or use evaporated milk for a flavor reminiscent of church potlucks and community suppers. If you prefer a sturdier slice, bake just until the center has only a slight wobble; for a softer, more delicate custard, pull it from the oven a minute or two earlier and let it finish setting as it cools. For those who need to plan ahead, this pie keeps well in the refrigerator and is often even better the next day, when the flavors have had time to settle and mellow.